Tuesday, May 17, 2022

Christmas Joys for Riley Blake Designs - Pincushion Station

Hi Christmas! I'm ready for you! Hello, it's Karen from Creamcraft Goods. Christmas is my absolute favorite holiday, so I'll take any kind of Christmas fabric anytime of the year. The new collection Christmas Joys by Lindsay Wilkes of The Cottage Mama is so sweet and it's hard to resist the vintage cuteness! Using her adorable retro designs, I thought my Pincushion Station Pattern would work lovely in showcasing her new collection.

I created this Pincushion Station pattern with organization and compact size in mind. There are multiple pockets to hold all your sewing notions - small to medium scissors, small rotary cutter, seam ripper, clips, and of course pins and needles! It is also weighted with crushed walnuts, so it stays put around your sewing area. I also use it as a weight to hold down fabric when I'm cutting. All my essential notions are easily accessible, making sewing more organized and fun! This Pincushion Station also makes great gifts, or even Christmas gifts! Shop the pattern here:



                        

The Pincushion Station is great for fussy cutting your favorite prints to make it extra special. Here, I fussy cut some of the cute Christmas animal images for the top of the pincushion and paired it with the text prints.

This Pincushion Station can hold many things and helps to keep you organized, while still being cute! I added button embellishments and handmade tags to make the pincushion cute and unique.

I hope you enjoyed my Pincushion Station for Christmas Joys. You can shop the pattern here:

Christmas Joys is arriving soon into stores, so check your favorite quilt / fabric shop to see of they will carry it!

Thanks for reading along!

Karen



Saturday, April 9, 2022

Little Women - Book Bag Purse and Book Cover Tutorial

Hi friends! I’m so excited to share my latest project creating with this adorable new fabric line – Little Women by Jill Howarth for Riley Blake Designs! Jill's take on classic stories is always unique, sweet, and just plain cute! She sweetly illustrates the main characters and scenery to perfection, while adding her own creative spin. 

For this project, I wanted to create a something that complemented her story, so what better way than in books! This is my take on a book bag, making it into a Book Bag Purse. I created a book style purse using main character prints and complemented it with Jill’s beautiful floral, pattern, and notion prints. I added leather elements and metal hardware for the handle and it also has a detachable bag strap. 

I also made a pretty, useful book cover, which surprise, is a free tutorial down below! I love making book covers for special books I collect or it would even make a beautiful gift to give to one who loves collecting or reading books too. 


Book Bag Purse:

     
Book Bag Purse and Book Cover created with Little Women By Jill Howarth


Little Women Panel

I used the the lovely panel in this collection and fussy cut an image for the book bag cover. You can do so many things with a panel - create a quilt or cut it up to make more projects.


  

I used leather and metal hardware for the handle and bag strap. I added a zipper to the top of the bag to hold everything together.


        

It's hard to chose a favorite print in this collection, so I ended up making two bags to showcase the fabric!


Book Cover:

This is the lovely book cover I made using the portraits print from the collection. The book cover fits a 8.25" x 5.5" book. You can easily adjust the sizing to meet your book size needs. 

      


Book Cover Tutorial:

You will need the following materials and tools - 

  • One cotton fat quarter (for the inside and inside pockets), two cotton fat eights (for the front, back, and spine, in different prints), one  cotton 1/4" yard for the binding, one fat eighth of fusible interfacing, and one fat quarter of foam interfacing (I used Annie's foam interfacing for this project)
  • Button embellishment and a 6" piece of elastic

You will need to cut the following:
  • Cut two 5" x 9 1/2" cotton print (for the front and back cover)
  • Cut one 4 3/4" x 9 1/2" cotton print (for the spine)
  • Cut one 13.75" x 9 1/2" foam interfacing (for the body)
  • Cut one 13.75" x 9 1/2" cotton print (for the inside)
  • Cut two 6 1/2" x 9" cotton prints and two 6 1/2" x 9" fusible interfacings
  • Cut one 46" x 2 1/4" for the binding (cut from the 1/4" yard of fabric, if cutting from a fat quarter, you can just two pieces to make a 46" x 2 1/4" binding strip and trim accordingly)
*Note - seam allowance is 1/4" unless noted otherwise. Basting stitch uses 1/8" 
 seam allowance. Finished size of the book cover is 13" x 9" open laying flat


Steps:

Step 1:
Attach the front and back cover pieces (5" x 9 1/2" cotton prints) to the spine piece
(4 3/4" x 9 1/2" cotton print). With right side facing out, lay the spine piece down. Next, with wrong side facing out, lay the back cover on top of the spine. Sew along the left side seam. Open and press the seam open. Repeat for the right side, with wrong side facing out, lay the front cover piece on top of the spine (right side of spine should be facing out), and sew along the right-side seam. Open and press the seam. 
 
                                 

Pieces sewn together


Step 2:
Attach the foam interfacing to the back of the cover piece. With right side facing out, attach the 13.75" x 9 1/2" inner cotton piece to the backside of the 13.75" x 9 1/2" foam interfacing. It should look like a sandwich with cover on top, interfacing in the middle and inner piece on the bottom. You can add pins to secure the edges and quilt as desired. Once you are done quilting the piece trim to 13" x 9", making sure the front and back covers are even in size. 

Sandwich the interfacing between the front cover
and inner piece
It should look like this once quilted


Step 3:
Take the 6" elastic piece and fold in half. Attach the raw edges of the elastic to the back of the cover (this should be the left side of the piece), centering on the left middle side. Baste in place.

Add elastic to the left middle side


Step 4:
To create the two inner pockets (these hold the book in place), starting with the left pocket, take a 6 1/2" x 9" cotton print and adhere to a 6 1/2" x 9" fusible interfacing to the backside of the cotton. Fold the piece in half lengthwise and sew a seam close to the folded right edge.  Repeat for the left side pocket (the folded seam should be on the right side of this pocket, see pictures below).


Left and right side pockets

Attach each side pocket piece the the inside of the cover. Starting with the left  side, align the raw edges of the pocket to the left side covers raw edge. Clip in place and baste. Repeat for the right side.  

Align the left and right sides onto the inside cover

At this point, I like to baste around all the edges. This just ensures a cleaner edge when attaching the binding. You can also add any extra embellishments to spine if desired.

Add optional embellishments to the spine


Step 5: 
To make and attach the binding, take the 46" x 2 1/4" binding and fold in half lengthwise. Press all the way to the length of the binding with an iron to create the folded edge. Now, attach the binding. Starting with the left side of the cover, open the binding, and fold the right edge of the binding inward by 1/4" and press. Attach this to the bottom middle edge of the front cover and secure with a few clips in place. Sew a seam 1" from the right of the bindings folded seam, creating an 1" opening (making sure to backstitch, this will be the space to insert the tail end of the binding into).

Fold in bindings right edge by 1/4" and press with an iron

Attach the binding to the left side (back ) of the cover

Once you get to the first corner, create a mitered corner. Stop 1/4" before the corner, lift your sewing foot up and turn the fabric to a 45 degree angle and sew to the edge (I also backstitch). Now, take the piece off of the sewing machine. Take the binding and fold it up and finger press along the 45 degree seam. Next, fold the binding downwards, matching the folded seams to to the top of the corner edge. Clip in place and continue to sew a seam along the raw edge down to the next corner, continuing this same method to miter each of the remaining corners (see pictures below)

45 degree seam

Press the binding up along the 45 degree seam

Turn the binding downward, matching the folded
seam to the top edge corner, clip in place and
continue to sew a seam along the raw edge

Fold the binding over and hand sew or machine sew the binding down. Once you get to the end of the binding, stop about 1" from the end (take any clips out you have in place). Trim down the binding to fit into the beginning 1" opening you left in the beginning and insert the tail into the opening and clip back into place. Continue sewing the rest of the binding in place.

                       

Trim tail and insert into opening
Insert tail and continue to sew binding down


Step 6:
Attach the button to front of the cover (this should be the right side), centering the button on the middle right side edge making sure the elastic fits accordingly around the button.

Add the button to the right side of the cover

You are now done!

Finished Book Cover

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. I would love to see your finished Book Covers. Please use the hashtag #creamcraftgoodsbook on Instagram.  Little Women by Jill Howarth is arriving in stores now, so check your favorite fabric/quilt shop to see if they carry it. 

Thanks!

Karen








Thursday, January 6, 2022

Easter Parade Drawstring Bag and Pouch

Hello and Happy New Year! I hope you all had a joyous holiday. I'm starting the New Year with a new project to share with you using adorable upcoming fabric - Easter Parade by Lindsey Wilkes of The Cottage Mama for Riley Blake Designs. If you are a huge fan of Lindsey's work (as I am), you will expect cute, retro designs with adorable kitschy animals, mixed with florals and nostalgic prints, using sweet color palettes. Easter Parade is perfect for the Easter holiday and beyond, if you are looking for a design that invokes this spirit. 



In this project, I created a sweet Drawstring Bag and Stand Up Pouch. As a thank you for following along, I included a free tutorial for the Stand Up Pouch, so you can make them in time for you Easter baskets!





For the Drawstring Bag, I used the retro animal print and florals. I paired it with vintage cream lace for the drawstring closure. I think it adds a nice touch. You can use this bag as an open tote or a closed drawstring bag. I added sturdy cotton webbing handles with lace making it nice to carry along with you.

 

The Stand Up Pouch is the perfect size to included in Easter baskets or to hand them as little gifts on it own to the recipients.  The bottom is gusseted, making it roomy for all the things you can add such as candy, a few Easter eggs, or a small toy. You can also stand the pouch up when you display it. 






To make the Stand Up Pouch, here is the Tutorial:


Stand Up Pouch Tutorial

You will need the following materials and tools - 

  • Two cotton fat quarters in contrasting prints, fusible interfacing in medium weight, one yard of drawstring (thin type), bodkin (to thread the drawstring), point turn tool or chopstick, water soluble marking pen
You will need to cut the two cotton pieces and fusible interfacing to 6 ½ x 18” , cut the drawstring to two 18" pieces.

*Finished size laying flat is 5 3/4" x 6 1/2"

Steps:

  1. Adhere the inner pouch lining to the fusible interfacing (I find having the interfacing on the inner liner gives a smooth finish to the outer pouch while still giving the pouch body). 

  2. With wrong sides facing out, lay the outer piece on top of the inner piece. Pin the top and bottom and sew a ¼ seam along each end. Press open both seams and turn the piece right side out (it will look like a loop) and press. 
    Turn right side out and press

  3. Using the overlock stitch on you machine, sew each side using a ¼ seam allowance. 

  4. To prep the bottom gusset and top cord channel, position the pouch so the inner liner side is facing out. For the bottom gusset, make a mark with a marking pen    1 ½” from the bottom left and right corners. For the top cord channel, mark the top corners by ½”.  

  5. To make the bottom gusset, from the bottom corners, fold the ends up along the marked lines and clip in place.  Sew up to the top marked line on the top on each side, making sure to backstitch once you get to the marked line.
    Fold up the bottom ends along the marked lines
    Sew up to the top marked lines making sure to backstitch

  6. To make the the channel for the drawstring, open the top side seams (you will have an open side here from the 1 1/2" unsewn seam). Press the open seam back by ¼, using the sewn seam as a guide. Pin in place and sew using a 1/8” seam around the opening (see picture). Repeat for the other side.
    Open the top unsewn seam
    Press the open seam back by 1/4"
    Sew along the open seam by 1/8" seam allowance

  7. Now fold the top seam down by ¾ (to about where the open side seam ends). This will create the channel for the cording. Sew a 1/8” seam along the bottom of the folded edge (take off your sewing arm to sew around the pouch). 
    Fold the top inner seam down by 3/4"
    Sew a 1/8" seam along the bottom folded edge

  8. Turn the pouch right side out, using a point turn tool or chopstick, smoothing out the bottom. 
    Here is the bottom gusset

  9. To insert the cording, starting on either side, use the bodkin to thread the first cording piece into the channel, passing thru the gap to the other end. Take the second cording piece and repeat starting on the opposite side. Once both ends are out, tie each end to secure in place. You are now done! 

I hope you enjoyed this project and make many of these little pouches for Easter or any holiday, or even for yourself! 

Easter Parade will start to arrive soon into stores, so check your favorite quilt or fabric shop! 

Thanks!

Karen